Wow, it’s been so long since I’ve been somewhere ‘new’, I almost forgot how much I love that sense of seeing everything with fresh eyeballs. It feels great being a fish out of water!

We’re in Orizaba, Veracruz, for a short while, whilst we prep for a dirt road loop around Pico Orizaba… a ride that ascends from less than 1000m to 4550m! This post is mostly a means of jotting down some initial thoughts down and noting cool places we come across. Think eateries/bike shops/trails/coffee shops, aka the cornerstones of life.

Some first impressions though, compared to Oaxaca:

• The urban streets are so very smooth here!
• The flora is far more tropical, with banana trees, palms, bromeliads, huge bamboos, ferns, and riverside sycamores lending a lush backdrop to the town.
• Where are the street dogs?! I’ve not seen any!
• The general atmosphere is very different from that of Oaxaca, it feels more European in some ways.
• Lots of squawking parrots in the plazas!
• I love all the cantina/diners, with old-school decor and family vibes.

I miss Huesos!

Logistics-wise, we took the bus here from Oaxaca, which cost around 700 pesos with ADO. It left at midnight and arrived at 5am… Note to self: this sandal-wearing rider found it cold when we got in! No issues or additional costs with the bikes. As we waited out in the bus station for the sun to rise over the city (and warm us up), we peeked Pico Orizaba (Citlaltepeti), and tallest volcano in Mexico, and the third-highest peak in North America. Stunning.

Spot the chilly bikepacker.

The inactive volcano of Pico Orizaba/Citlaltepeti (5,636 m). In Nahuatl, this means Star Mountain.

We both did our very best to convince this statue to take up bikepacking… but no dice. Eventually, she did say she’d try e-biking.

Info corner

Digs? Accommodation-wise, we’ve living the good life sat Orizaba Inn. It’s central, everyone is friendly, we found a cubby hole to stash our bikes, and the room is quiet. It’s 700 pesos all in, including a tasty breakfast. I’m extremely indecisive about choosing where the stay in new places, generally honing in on budget options – and whilst this spot is more expensive than normal for me, it’s great value.

Food? Cafe Con Leche does a great set menu that’s really affordable. It’s a super popular place for lunch. Otherwise, there are tonnes of places to eat, and it’s actually less expensive than Oaxaca. Picadilas seem to be a specialty.

Coffee? Loads of great places, but the one we’ve honed in on as our favourite so far is Breve Cafe.

Love the mug/cup collection in Breve Cafe! Brownie and carrot cake were excellent too, regrettably gulped down before I remembered to snap them.

Helados? Again, no shortage of paleterias, though Tortas Mellado – a family diner – was an especially cool find, with great ‘n crispy tacos dorados and homemade ice cream.

Trails? There’s nothing on Trailforks but Wikiloc has a few options. This post looks interesting – unfortunately, it’s missing the gpx file. I’ve also been in touch with Javier from Stoned Riders – an enduro shop/guiding outfit based in nearby Fortin de las Flores – and was able to meet up and share ideas for the ride we’re planning, something like the one below (still a work in progress). Javier really enjoys bikepacking too – he has a Surly Krampus and recently rode the nearby Ojos de Tecuacan route – and has lots of great ideas for bikepacking in Veracruz. I’m excited to join him on a ride some time.

Hanging out, and route planning, with Stoned Riders Javier!

(Update: here’s the final version of the route, as posted on Bikepacking.com)

Bike shops? Black Bike Center has plenty of high-end gear in stock, including a range of tyres, sealant, and Shimano parts and Ast Bike Store, which I didn’t go to, looks good too.

Bikepacking food? Looks like Rovianda Plus Madera would be a good place to load up with granola, good quality pasta, gnocchi, bakery goods, and lots of other tasty delights. There’s a big market too, called Mercado Zepata, probably good for bulk stuff.

Other cool spots? Places that exude character, in no particular order:

• Jugos California
• Cafeteria California
• La Gran Cafe de Orizaba.

One feature that makes this town so appealing is the river that flows through it, lending the city a lush and well-watered feel that’s missing in bone-dry Oaxaca. Rio Orizaba is also a great place to go for a morning stroll. It wends its way through the city, with artwork and murals in places, and lots of areas to hang out. There are elegant bridges and wrought iron, spiral staircases, mossy pipelines to duck under, and sculptures popping out of walls, all of which lend it a kind of surreal, tropical charm.

I’ve mixed feelings about the zoo though, which lines both banks of the river, with swing bridges connecting one to the other. Whilst it’s absolutely fascinating to see the lions/pumas/jaguars/havelinas/coyotes/crocodile/ostriches/emus up close, watching them pace around tiny enclosures (or lie despondently in a very small pond, in the case of the croc) didn’t make me feel too good )-:

No shortage of reminders that Orizaba is a Pueblo Magico!

Whilst it was interesting to see a zoo laid out all this, for all to see as they jogged past, it was sad to see think about these magnificent animals in captivity, especially given the tiny enclosures.

At one point, I became semi-obsessed with the different finishes of houses, all of which were in one street…

… and their doorways. These were seen on one short city walk.

Meanwhile, down on the riverfront…

Industrial meets bunyan tree vibes.

Murals… my favourite!

It was easy to imagine half of this river walk being submerged into a water world, perhaps by a rising river tide or monsoon rains.

I wonder if Guadalajara-born Guillermo del Toro was influenced by Orizaba…

What else? Compared to Oaxaca, where are the tourists?! Or at least, international tourists, from the looks of things at least.

And of course, a full bike rundown is coming soon. In the meantime:

Jones LWB Spaceframe with a Tumbleweed Mini Pannier Rack and Mountain Laurel Designs Poco Panniers. It’s a new setup for me, excited to see how it feels! Oh yeah, and those are monster 29 x 3.25 Cruz Duro tyres!