Whilst the various bikepacking routes we’ve been posting strive to showcase this beautiful and culturally diverse state, for those coming from afar, the city of Oaxaca de Juaréz makes a great base to learn about Zapotec culture and traditions. As such, it’s well worth allotting yourself at least a few days to enjoy the fantastic regional fare, visit the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca, pop into the Museo Textil, and ride out various nearby archaeological sites – like nearby Monte Albán and Atzompa.

Indeed, the three main valleys that prod out of the city offer much more than just riding… though cycling is definitely the best way of discovering them! With this in mind, here are a handful of fun rides of differing lengths to bookend your trip, which take in a number of the area’s cultural sights too.

Note that the kind of rides I tend to prefer are not always the easiest ways from A to B. They can be chunky and unorthodox in places, but I like to think the juice is always worth the squeeze! Study the profiles and read the descriptions to see if they are suited to you. You can always use them for ideas and adjust accordingly.

San Felipe Tejalapam Dirt Loop (version Roughstuff)

42km/3 hours ride time/600m elevation gain

This short loop is a great way of getting out for a few hours in the Etla Valley and it’s one of my very favourite day rides.

Connecting a web of dirt roads out to San Felipe Tejalapam, complete with ridgetops meanders, it will get you of Oaxaca and back in time to wander the streets of the city in the afternoon. There are several permutations to this ride – the San Felipe Tejalapam Dirt Loop (version Roughstuff) is my favourite.

The Monte Albán and Cuilapam Rural Ramble 

68km/5 hours ride time/1000m elevation gain

The Monte Albán and Cuilapam Rural Ramble is a challenging, roughstuff day ride that passes by the Zapotec ruins of Monte Albán en route to the Ex-Monastry of Cuilapam – a complex set in Oaxaca’s Valle Grande and Ejutla area. You can trim it down to the single loop, but I recommend the full figure of eight, as it’s a wonderful showcase for Oaxaca’s traditional farming practices and inter-cropping – where a combination of corn, squash, and beans help fortify the soil and keep pests away. From Cuilapam, it’s pavement riding, but at least it’s in a downward direction.

There’s a slighter shorter version, with a little climbing, that skips Monte Albán – find that here. It takes around 4 hours 15min – riding time.

Monte Alban and Atzompa Rough ‘n Ruts

35km/2.45hr ride time/600m elevation gain

For a much shorter version with some short sections of trail, there’s also Monte Alban and Atzompa Rough ‘n Ruts. It’s a good little loop to see Monte Alban and Atzompa (currently closed), and get back into town with plenty of time to spare. Just note some of the trail may need to be walked, depending on rider confidence and bike setup. Either way, I recommend checking out Monte Alban! It’s an incredible Zapotec site and a highlight of visiting Oaxaca City.

Teotitlán, via San Andrés Huayapam, Dainzú, and Tule

75km/5 hours ride time/645m elevation gain

If you’re into buying some textiles from their source, then the 75km Teotitlán, via Huayapam, Dainzú, and Tule is sure to add great memories to your purchase. It links up predominantly mellow trails, rural roads, and remote two-track, via the archeological site of Dainzu.

San Andrés Huayapam Loop – Foothill Trails Out, Dirt Roads Back

31km/ 2.45 hr ride time/ 700m elevation gain

This Huayapam Loop – Foothill Trails Out, Dirt Roads Back knits together various dirt roads tracks that loosely connect the Libramento Norte to San Andrés Huayapam. Once there, replenish your energy levels with a gourd of tejate or some memelas at one of the fantastic restaurants in town. This is an unconventional little loop, with some short but rugged trails and steep inclines. If you want to keep things simple and more mellow, it’s also a lot of fun as an out and back, doubling up the return leg.

Monte Alban, Rio Jalapilla, and Jalapa del Valle

57km, 4.30 hours riding time, 1250m elevation gain

This loop strikes out towards Monte Alban, following the 4 Venados Overnighter. It then peels off towards Jalapa del Valle, crossing the Rio Jalapilla on a couple of occasions, before connecting back with town.

With thanks to Larry at www.oaxacamtb.com for sharing his love of riding in Oaxaca – and his vast wealth of dirt road day rides out of the city – from which much of my own knowledge is based.