This will be a short missive, in part because of the overnight nature of the ride, and also because it ended somewhat unexpectedly!

A couple of days ago, Mason and I cycled up, up, up into the Sierra Norte, via the Reserva Ecológica La Mesita, in search of cooler temperatures and a night’s camping in the high country. Of course, Huesos came too, big grin and all.

It’s the heart of the dry season here in Oaxaca and unless you’re disciplined enough to jump out of bed before sunrise and pedal hard for mountains without pausing for so much as a tortilla, it’s likely you’ll be sweating profusely on at least the initial segment of this monster climb.

Perhaps I can blame this seasonal heat or something I’d eaten in the morning for my unusual lack of well-being. Whatever, my stomach was cramping unpleasantly by the time we hit La Mesita and the high temperatures had me curled up and wilted like a water-deprived fern. This is not to say that the San Pablo Etla ascent into the Sierra Norte is ever an easy one at the best of times (it is, after all, over 1800m in elevation gain from ‘town to top’), just that I felt especially humbled on that particular day. I was often off the bike and pushing, whilst Mason rode ahead and Huesos dawdled and waited for me in shaded nooks.

Still, we made it to our intended campsite by late afternoon, settling on a spot in a forest glade behind one of the older San Pablo Etla cabañas, where we spent a chilled evening eating tamales and chile rellenos. It was also a full moon that night, and we chatted about UFOs, carbon bicycle parts, The Matrix, and more…

Come morning, I had coffee on the go, whilst Huesos sniffed around in his cute Mickey Mouse fleece, barking at imaginary foes. Then we pulled down the tents and packed up our gear and rode a little higher still to a clearing. There, we ditched our bikes and hiked up to the Cruz de la Peña to enjoy its broad views across the Etla Valley below. I always enjoy this 20-minute walk as there are a number of detailed information panels along the way, explaining the migratory patterns of birds and referencing other fauna in the area, and a particular ridgeline microclimate that’s a magnet for bromeliads and succulents.

Back on the bikes again, we hopped onto La Huerta trail, as it’s one of my favourite ways back down the mountain, one that avoids tracing the forest road climb. It’s a trail I’ve ridden a dozen times or more (though this is the first time with a trailer), and whilst steep and modestly technical in places, it’s mostly fast, flowy, and super fun.

To be honest, I still wasn’t feeling 100 per cent from the day before, so it’s possible my reactions were a little off, or maybe the forest spirits were displeased with me for some reason. I was also running different handlebars, for a change, which always takes some getting used to.

Anyway, midway back down, something (a rock? a root? I will return to investigate at some point!) somehow clipped my little toe and when I reticently looked down at my foot to gauge the damage, the remnants of my poor little dedo meñique gave me quite a shock. Where it had once curled cosily next to Toe No 4, it was now exiting at close to right angles, with a deep laceration separating it from its neighbour. Yikes! Luckily I had some gorilla tape wrapped around my bicycle pump, so I lashed it back into place and Mason gave it a clean at the next water source that we passed. Then I covered it up and we rolled back down into the dust and heat, returning to the city more directly than we were planning (via a round of paletas, of course), so I could get it dealt with pronto at the local clinic. Yes yes yes, I was wearing my favourite open-toe Bedrocks as I almost always do at this time of year, which is perhaps ill-advised for trail riding. I will certainly choose different footwear next time, though I’m also chalking this incident down to some especially bad luck.

Anyway… Whilst it wasn’t the best end to a short trip, it was a fun midweek excursion nonetheless. Huesos certainly had a great time, running freely, quickly, and light-footed amongst the pine needles.

From henceforth, I will call this segment of Huerta… Dedo Meñique, aka Broken Toe Trail!

Thanks for reading!

Scrambling around in the Reserva Ecológica La Mesita before committing to the big climb head… This fantastic little spot is a fine example of regenerative planting. It has a butterfly sanctuary, a trail system, and a number of outdoor sculptures by local artists.

From there, the ascent is initially steep and exposed to the whims of the dry season sun, before the bliss of gentler grades and shade are eventually reached.

Bike Check: Jones SWB with 29 x 3.25/29×2.6, a Tribulus Endover front bag, Buckhorn framebag, MLD Ultra Poco panniers, and Frances Cycles Farefarer.

I’m working on a review for Bikepacking.com on these ultralight Ultra Poco Panniers by Mountain Laurel Designs, hence these experiments with different attachment systems. The bags are seen here attached to a Tumbleweed Mini Pannier rack.

And this is Mason’s Bianchi, complete with his homemade framebag and saddle bag, along with a wire basket setup. It’s a super fun and interesting build, and we’re working on a Rider and Rig for the site, too!

Huesos just loves the company of other riders, and he was thrilled to have Mason along.

Extracting valuable coffee water…

Morning jet fuel, served in my favourite enamel cup. Let me know if you want to buy one of Emma’s vinyl stickers!

The morning routine: Huesos checks the campsite perimeter for intruders. If we camp with friends, he’ll assume the right to hop into their tent too, nose poking into available armpits and tail flapping in faces.

Leaving bike behind to hike up to the Cruz de la Peña, with views across the Etla Valley below.

Ferns and epiphytes along the way. This narrow ridge is especially dense in forest flora.

I’m a big fan of info panels, especially the kind that are detailed, descriptive, and so well presented.

Someone took the trouble to make this beautiful bench… so Mason figured he should at least enjoy it.

And back down to the valley floor, via La Huerta Trail. I love this section of singletrack, where the madrones resemble a forest Kraken, and the pine needles form a slippery carpet floor.

And lastly, the railway line home, via Mysterious DC-9 and a round of paletas.

THE ROUTE

I’ll add a RWGPS map later. But basically, we rode over the Libramento Norte, across to La Viguera for some breakfast, up to La Mesita, and into the forest. On the way back, we dropped down to the old railway line, heading into the city via the old railway station south of the Zocalo.

FIELD NOTES

I was able to chat to the folks at the Reserva Ecológica La Mesita and figure out the best camping strategies in the area. You can either camp at the actually centro for 100 pesos per person, or in the forest for the same price. They’ll likely prefer that you specify your spot, so the first set of cabañas (which are not currently in use) makes a good reference point. See map for details and talk to Simay (951 565 7220) or Leonardo at the centro.

If you ring in advance (951 144 4067), you can stay in the cabañas, too. They’re set deep in the forest, with lots of opportunities for running and hiking nearby.

If you’re on your bike, it’s easy to be tempted into skipping the twenty-minute hike to Cruz de la Peña, as it’s one best completed on foot. But it’s always worth it. It’s abundant with plant life and it gives you an unmatched sense of where you’ve ridden from… and where you’re headed back to.

This mountain protrusion provides an especially prominent skyline from the city below, so it’s fun to be able to crane your head up to it and know that you’ve stood there.

LITTLE TOE POSTSCRIPT

Thank you Megan for whisking me off to various clinics and eventually the hospital, where I had the cut between my toes stitched up and the bone reset. Advice on healing diets, particularly for broken toes, is very much welcome! Lots of healthy food, some antibiotics, and rest are now in order.

I won’t include any photos, as it was pretty gruesome, but here’s the x-ray for posterity’s sake.

Moral of the story? Perhaps it’s best not to ride trails with open-toe sandals unless you’re on top of your game. And keep that pump well-wrapped with Gorilla tape!

The dedo meñique before it was reset.

Music To Heal Toes To…