El Abuelo

Yagul vibes for bikepacking.com's Goodnight Campout 2023!

I’m out of order and late to the game, as usual…

A little over a week ago, we celebrated the end of 2023, via @bikepackingcom’s yearly Goodnight Campout (which, if truth be told, takes a good deal more resilience to pull off in say, Northern Europe or the US, than here in toasty hot Oaxaca).

The fringes of Yagul have become a favourite area to ride out to for a quick, fortifying overnighter, and our unofficial camp spot promises the company of an old and noble organ cactus (el abuelo), the odd scorpion or two, a craggy island of limestone that was once a Zapotec ceremonial site, and lush views across the wetlands towards the village of San Miguel del Valle, framed (as ever) by the imposing walls of the Sierra Norte… along with the prerequisite, Mexican middle-of-the-night/crack-of-dawn soundtrack of yipping coyotes/church services/brass band practises/weekend fiestas (delete as applicable).

This was Ben’s gentle introduction to bikepacking in Oaxaca (see previous post for our more dubious pushpacking experiences), so we made extra sure memelas were eaten in abundance, tepache and pulque were sampled, and coffee was always on tap… though we did weave in a few extra inclines to the homeward stretch to bolster up the stats. Logan and Virginia almost adopted a dog along the way, too.

Happy New Year… and may 2024 bring bike rides aplenty, be they fun and light-spirited outings, or challenging and transformational adventures! (Also, @notjustforfungis put together a fantastic reel from this short trip, which I’d encourage you to check out and enjoy!)

Memela Stop 1, in Tlacochahuaya. Huesos enjoyed his usual round of Tortilla con Asiento.

He does love to be part of the gang.

I did mention it was a bit of a food tour, right? Here we are, refreshing our palettes on tangy tepache, fermented pineapple, and pulque, the fermented sap of maguey.

Ben front-loading the Jones, with a BXB x Andrew the Maker x Tailfin combo.

Christmas decorations in Tlacolula, where we ordered a takeout dinner (more delicious and freshly made memelas!)

Our morning view, over the wetlands, across San Miguel Del Valle, and into the stormy folds of the Sierra Norte.

El Abuelo looked after us that night and we all slept soundly, woken only by the rousing chorus of an early morning church service carrying in wind.

On the breakfast menu: some fancy imported coffee, all the way from Colombia via Bournemouth. (note coffee-making implements, the pirate flag, and some Roughstuff Fellowship swag).

A neighbour.

Attack of the Chollas: The perils of being a dog (or a cyclist) in cactus country. Huesos is used to spines taking temporary residence in his fur, and boops his appreciation when they’re removed.

Day 2 continued with a mellow meander through the Yagul nature reserve.

Brunch (Barbacoa Blando taco), Gin holding her almost adopted dog, and the mean streets of Villa Díaz Ordaz.

A quick pit stop for face mug cortados pick-me-pups and some sidewalk lounging in Teotitlan.

We routed back to the city along terracerías that ran flush to the hills on the north side of the highway, bereft of traffic but rich in steep, loose climbs.

And, lastly, my co-pilot and goto dogpacking setup. It’s a Jones Spaceframe with Tailfin front panniers, Revelate framebag, and Frances Cycles Farfarer trailer. Our Hyperlite Ultamid 2 tent, which has ample room for 2 + dog, is lashed to the back.

Also, Emma made a reel!

Check it out, because it’s a real good ‘un!

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1kPlqnO-aH/

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