So, this weekend I finally managed to ride a long-anticipated loop into the Sierra Juarez, connecting a few of the Pueblos Mancomundos villages that have, until very recently, been closed to the outside world. New roads and trails… yes please!
I was also able to share the experience with Vermont-based Daniel Schmidt, co-owner of Ramble Bikepacking, with whom I’ve been running and riding recently. Cue lots of conversations about bikes and travel – ever-engrossing topics that helped the route’s two monster climbs pass by more swiftly than they might have otherwise. However… there was no Huesos to trot alongside me this time, much to the chagrin of those who recognised me from our trip to Benito Juárez last week. “Pero… donde esta Huesos?!” came the question, more than a few times. I even had to make a solemn promise not to return again without him…
Next time I will bring Huesos. Prometido!
Due to some added logistical challenges – whilst most of this area is now open again, the village Latuvi, through which we needed to pass through en route to Lachatoa, remains closed – we hired a guide for half a day, especially as a key segment involved a remote trail. Once the area is completely open again, it’s unclear to me if it will be fine to solo ride to Lachatao armed only with a gpx track and enthusiasm, or whether a guide will still be required. Either way, it was great chatting to Amador for our three and half hour ride between the Benito Juarez and Lachatao – plus, I read recently that 90% of the money generated by the Pueblo Manconunados’ eco-tourism scheme returns directly to the community, which is reassuring to know. Amador even opined that since this eco-touristic scheme’s introduction, less villagers are now inclined to try their luck at crossing the US border in pursuit of work.
The Plan – 2 monster climbs and trails in between
Broadly speaking, our plan involved riding from Oaxaca City to Benito Juárez (Monster Climb 1), then looping out to Lachatao and back (Monster Climb 2). Quite apart from being a trip that I’ve long wanted to do for myself, it’s also a potential singletrack-infused addition to a route we recently posted to bikepacking.com early this year – La Vuelta de los Pueblos Mancomunados – which may just be my favourite bikepacking trip in Oaxaca!
This sub-loop begins with a dirt road descent from Benito Juárez to Latuvi. Then, it’s mostly trail to Lachatao. Although the net loss in elevation is significant, there were enough short and stabby hike-a-bike climbs and slippery, rocky staircases to keep you on our toes.
Daniel and Amador. Amador turned up promptly to meet us at 8am, complete with a basic 26in hardtail, his trainers, a 2-way radio, and a Camelbak. Not only is this fellow a strong and capable mountain biker, but he’s an accomplished ultrarunner too, so we had plenty to chat about.
As usual for this part of the Oaxacan sierra, there was no shortage of punky bromeliads, or ‘magueyitas’, to use local parlance.
Post trail fuel: a couple of sturdy, hand-made tortillas, a generous dollop of beans, a hearty mushroom and spinach omelet, a cup of hot chocolate… and a coconut paleta to cleanse the palette.
Lachatao turned out to be completely idyllic and adorable, and also in the midst of a yearly fiesta for its patron saint. Cue brass band and party time!
I’m still wrapping my head around the way the community-spirited Pueblos Mancomundos are actually run. To the outsider at least, living here seems nothing short of blissful.
Coffee outside.
Top tip: pack light, for sure, but never forgo a stove and a morning brew. It’s the lubricant of life!
Scenes from the Sierra Norte.
Beyond Yavesia, we dipped briefly into the trails and dirt roads maintained by the Cuajimaloyas community, which it borders. This afforded us a bonus, lung bursting climb, a chance to commune with giant agaves, and meanst we edited out a few kilometres of dastardly pavement (the endless quest!)
A man and his (third-hand) bike.
Lunch in Cuajimaloyas at Restaurant El Mirador, then a quick hi to the boys in Benito Juárez. “Pero donde esta Huesos?“
The 1000m+ descent from Benito Juarez – the same road we’d laboured up just two days before – is blisteringly fast, washboarded on the straights, and marbly on the corners. It’s a great shakedown test of both gear and body: hold on tight to your bags and your fillings.
Daniel sipping a pick-me-up, sugary espresso in baking hot Teotitlán del Valle, before the final victory lap through the valley back home.
The Route
- Day 1: Oaxaca to Benito Juárez; 55km, 1800m elevation gain, 4hr 53 riding time
- Day 2: Benito Juárez to camping beyond Yavesia; 47km, 1230m elevation gain, 3hr 30 riding time
- Day 3: Camping to Oaxaca City; 74km, 1055m elevation gain, 4hr 20 riding time
We left Oaxaca at about 9.30am, following a mostly dirt road and trail route that keeps to the north side of the highway. It skirts the foothills and adds a few hundred extra metres of ascent before the main meal of the day – a stout ascent to Benito Juárez. It’s worth leaving earlier than we did in the dry season if this way appeals, as it’s hot, exposed, and climbs are jabby. We rested up in Teotitlán del Valle, timing it to arrive in sleepy Benito Juárez by the end of the day.
I love this obtuse route to Teotitlán del Valle. Not only is it a mellow way of heading out of town, it’s distinctly rough and tumble in places. (And yes, that’s a singlespeed cargo trike with 20in wheels!)
We camped up at Benito Juárez for our first night (100 pesos pp), then wild-camped beyond Yavesia on our second night, having checked in with the local municipality first. Note that the trail between Latuvi and Lachatao, whilst short, is fairly technical in places, so a dropper and/or suspension is handy. It’s best to go clockwise, as we did, as it’s a significant descent. Our guide cost 700 pesos and the ride took around 3.5 hours, with a few short breaks.
Scenes from a pandemic past… Benito Juárez has recently opened its gates to outsiders and tourism again, after a hiatus of almost three years. A couple of the eight Pueblos Communados remain closed but are due to open soon. December the 1st, if the rumours are true.
On our third and last day, we finished the climb off, then dipped into Cuajimaloyas for lunch (Restaurant El Mirador is highly recommended for both views, friendly vibes, and food), then returned from whence we came.
If you’re running a setup with more of a mountain bike flavour – and have the energy for it – you could also work in the boisterous Mil Rios, a fabulous trail that connects Benito Juárez/La Neveria with Tlalixtac, far down in the valley below. Given our setups, we weren’t feeling the urge and contentedly cruised down the forest roads, enjoying some sweeping views across the Mitla valley, before stopping for jet fuel espresso in Teotitlán del Valle, then savouring the quiet Sunday roads back into town.
The Bikes
Aside from more cerebral topics, the subject of bikes in all their various incarnations and permutations was discussed during the ride, in granular detail.
Here’s what we chose to ride. Next time, I think I’d go with a dropper!
Left: Daniel’s 3rd hand Salsa El Mariachi. More on that soon! Right, my Jones SWB in ‘gravel’ mode, which means a rigid seat post and ‘only’ 29×2.6s (-;
All in all, an adventure-packed long weekend and a ride I’m thrilled to have finally done. Thanks for the fine company and conversation, Daniel!
