Whilst the various bikepacking routes we’ve been posting strive to showcase this beautiful and culturally diverse state, for those coming from afar, the city of Oaxaca de Juaréz makes an ideal base for day rides to bookend your trip. These can be a great way of learning about Zapotec culture and traditions, too.

Here are six dirt road-themed rides, all of which take in facets of the area’s cultural sights, and will help you glean a sense of place. Note that the kind of creative rides I prefer are not necessarily the easiest ways from A to B. They all require good navigation skills, confidence on a bike when riding off road, and maybe the odd push! They can be chunky and unorthodox in places, but I like to think the juice is always worth the squeeze.

Study the profiles and read the descriptions to see if they are suited to you. You can always use them for ideas and adjust accordingly. In terms of bikes, a short travel hardtail or rigid mountain bike is likely best, though gravel bikes will appropriately low gearing and 2.1in tyres or more will be fine too.

Thanks to the many local riders who have shown me around the area; some of these rides are local classics whilst others are concoctions of my own.

Note that some Spanish language skills are useful for these rides. Be aware that much of the countryside and mountains are community owned and maintained, so always slow down and say hi, and respect any decisions to close parts of these routes. Let me know if anything changes, as it often does in Oaxaca. Thanks!

San Felipe Tejalapam Dirt Loop (version Roughstuff)

42km/3 hours ride time/600m elevation gain

This short loop is a great way of getting out for a few hours in the Etla Valley and it’s one of my very favourite day rides.

Connecting a web of dirt roads out to San Felipe Tejalapam, complete with ridgetops meanders, it will get you of Oaxaca and back in time to wander the streets of the city in the afternoon. There are several permutations to this ride – the San Felipe Tejalapam Dirt Loop (version Roughstuff) is my favourite.

The Monte Albán and Cuilapam Rural Ramble 

68km/5 hours ride time/1000m elevation gain

The Monte Albán and Cuilapam Rural Ramble is a challenging, roughstuff day ride that passes by the Zapotec ruins of Monte Albán en route to the Ex-Monastry of Cuilapam – a complex set in Oaxaca’s Valle Grande and Ejutla area. You can trim it down to the single loop, but I recommend the full figure of eight, as it’s a wonderful showcase for Oaxaca’s traditional farming practices and inter-cropping – where a combination of corn, squash, and beans help fortify the soil and keep pests away. From Cuilapam, it’s pavement riding, but at least it’s in a downward direction.

There’s a slighter shorter version, with a little less climbing, that skips Monte Albán – find that here. It takes around 4 hours 15min – riding time.

Monte Alban and Atzompa Rough ‘n Ruts

35km/2.45hr ride time/600m elevation gain

For another archeological site option, there’s Monte Alban and Atzompa Rough ‘n Ruts. It’s a great little loop that takes in Monte Alban and Atzompa, and gets you back into town with plenty of time to spare for an afternoon of exploring the city streets. Just note that there’s a section of trail that may need to be walked in places, depending on your biking confidence and setup.

Teotitlán, via San Andrés Huayapam, Dainzú, and Tule

75km/5 hours ride time/645m elevation gain

If you’re into buying some textiles from their source, then this 75km Teotitlán loop, via Huayapam, Dainzú, and Tule is sure to add great memories to your purchase. It links up predominantly mellow trails, rural roads, and remote two-track, via the archeological site of Dainzu.

San Andrés Huayapam Loop – Foothill Trails Out, Dirt Roads Back

31km/ 2.45 hr ride time/ 700m elevation gain

This Huayapam loop knits together various dirt roads tracks that loosely connect the Libramento Norte to San Andrés Huayapam. Once there, replenish your energy levels with a gourd of tejate or some memelas at one of the fantastic restaurants in town. This is an unconventional little loop with some short but rugged trails and steep inclines, that may require the odd dismout and push. If you want to keep things simple and more mellow, it’s also a lot of fun as an out and back, doubling up the return leg.

Monte Alban, Rio Jalapilla, and Jalapa del Valle

57km, 4.30 hours riding time, 1250m elevation gain

This loop strikes out towards Monte Alban, following the 4 Venados Overnighter. It then peels off towards Jalapa del Valle, crossing the Rio Jalapilla on a couple of occasions, before connecting back with town. Although the climb can be rugged until it connects with the concrete road to Cuatro Venados, most of the route is made of fast riding terrain.

With thanks to Larry at www.oaxacamtb.com for sharing his love of riding in Oaxaca – and his vast wealth of dirt road day rides out of the city – from which much of my own knowledge is based.