As the city was forecast to be as hot as an Oaxacan earthen comal last weekend, Huesos and I escaped with friends to Cumbre Ixtepeji, a protected swathe of the Sierra Norte lying at a more refreshing and enticing 3000m in elevation. We camped for the night amongst dense pines, oaks, and madrones, and rode (or four-legged ran) some of my favourite mountain bike trails, like Puma, Jabali, Carboñera, and Ola Hawaiana.
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However, the weekend’s highlight was perhaps the short sunrise mission to Pelado Chiquito, reached via a steep pedal from centro ecoturístico, and then a brief but testing off-the-bike hike. A far cry from the valley heat below us, it was unexpectedly windy and mist-swept at the lookout, completely cloaking any semblance of sun, let alone the sweeping views typical to this time of year. No matter, because as I dropped back down on singletrack to the centro ecoturístico for a round of entomatadas and cup of hot chocolate, I felt complete connection with my bike, the tacky trail unravelling before me and its ‘lil hops ‘n skips ‘n jumps, and the cloud forest vibes round me, stopping only to photograph a few keepsake moments; a flowering bromeliad, the fronds of a micro fern, or mycelium and mosses. Huesos bounded, fearlessly, ever-so-close to my tyre, doubtlessly savouring the fresh air in his lustrous coat, and the feeling of soft pine needles under paw. When we paused to catch our breath, he looked up at me with his classic Huesos smile and dangling tongue, with a face that may well have said “I’M SO FREAKIN’ STOKED!” Or, he’d dart off to investigate any forest sound or twig fall, on the chance that it may just be an elusive squirrel.
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At times like this, I feel especially fortunate to call Oaxaca home, and to be granted access to this remarkable forest, where I ride my bike on the most ethereal of trails, commune with the forest spirits in my sleep or in a blur, and forget all the world’s problems far below…

Squirrel??

The world according to Huesos.

Cloud forest vibes.

Mirador Paludo Chiquito. No views today, though.

Cabeza de Vaca trail, en route back to the centro ecoturístico.

Pure Bliss.

Huesos’ Happy Place. And mine too.

Don’t forget to slow down and enjoy the microcosmos.

Simple, nutritious, and beautiful fare at the comedor.

Fav Trails in Ixtepeji

I didn’t record all my rides at the weekend (Ola Hawaiana is another favourite), but here’s a loop that would pair well with a bikepacking trip there, along with our morning sunrise loop, and a gpx for the final ride down to Estudiantes, via Llano Carreta. The last gpx file includes a black diamond run, so not necessarily recommended with bikepacking gear, at least for maximum thrills!

If you’re planning to combine trail riding in Ixtepeji with a bikepacking trip, you’re best off riding down to the Centro via Raices or Murcielega and pitching your tent, then riding back up to the ‘trail hub’. Although this involves an extra climb, which takes about 30 mins, you’ll then be liberated from your gear and can ride unencumbered until dusk. Personally, I love to get up early the following morning and ride to the Mirador Paludo Chiquito before breakfast (typically, the restaurant opens late), then tuck into a hot chocolate and a round of memelas to ‘start’ the day!

This trail takes in my personal favourite, Puma! The loop starts and ends in the Centro Ecoturistico, dropping down via Raices.

This little pre-breakfast, sunrise ride is a great start to the day! This version drops down via Raices, but you could always add in a bonus trail, like nearby Carbonera, and descend back to the centro via Murcielega, another favourite fun and flowy trail.

This last track descends back down to the valley via Llano Carreta, from where you can connect with Tres Molinos to Huayapam. Of the black diamond trails, this is probably the least intense and technical options.

Thanks for reading! Any questions, fire away!